Best practices for nuisance wildlife control operators in New York State

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Ch 5: Step three: Do it - Nonlethal techniques

Live traps

Live traps are effective devices for capturing many species. Shown here are a raccoon, opossum, and woodchuck in the back of a NWCO's truck. Notice that cardboard placed between the cage traps to keep the animals from seeing each other. This may reduce their stress during transport.

Cage traps | multiple capture traps | foothold traps | nets | bird live traps | cable restraints | Tips for trapping animals

This is probably the animal removal tool used most often by NWCOs. A live trap is meant to capture an animal without killing it. Some types of live traps are cage traps (also known as "box traps"), multiple capture traps, foothold traps, nets, and a variety of bird traps.

Live trapping has some advantages. You can see what you've caught, and prove your success to your customer; and it prevents animals from dying in inaccessible locations, one of the hazards of using pesticides. In addition to the foul odor caused by decay, the presence of a dead animal can attract other pests. In most cases, if you're using a live trap, you would be able to release an animal that had been caught accidentally.

There are some disadvantages to live trapping as well. It's usually labor-intensive, and you might capture the wrong animal. If the live trap is used improperly, an animal may die in it, from lack of food or water, exposure to heat during the summer, weather extremes, or from attacks by wildlife, pets, or people. Some animals might hurt themselves because of the stress of being restrained, or while trying to escape.

If you're not experienced with live traps, we strongly recommend that you seek hands-on training—especially before using foothold traps. There are several excellent courses, including the DEC Trapper Education Course, and the Trapper's College and Furbearer Management Short Course offered by Fur Takers of America. Sessions on trapping techniques are often incorporated into seminars, conferences, and conventions sponsored by NWCO associations and trapping associations (see the resource list for state and national contacts). There are opportunities for one-on-one instruction, too. Experienced trappers often advertise such services in trade journals. You'll also find many books, videos, and magazines about trapping. Consider reading Trapping in the 21st Century.

cage trap in set position.

Cage traps (a.k.a. "box traps") are the main stock-in-trade of most NWCOs. These traps are often made of wire or plastic and come in many sizes and styles. They may open on one, or both ends. Customers may call all cage traps "Havaharts" after a popular model, but there are many designs and manufacturers, such as Tomahawk and Safeguard. For example, there are special, smaller versions of squirrel-sized cage traps that fit into woodstoves and chimney pipes.

An animal enters the cage, then steps on a treadle, which causes the door(s) at the end(s) of the trap to close. Cage traps are easy to set and do double duty as a carrier. Little site preparation is usually needed. They are generally safe for children and pets. Most people think they're humane. Unfortunately, most cage traps are bulky, and because of their size and shape, they're hard to conceal. This makes them more vulnerable to theft and vandalism. They are relatively expensive, and need frequent cleaning. Cage traps are not universally effective in capturing animals. Some species, such as foxes, are usually shy of these traps. Even individuals of species that are generally easy to catch in a cage trap, such as raccoons and gray squirrels, can be "trap-shy," especially if they have been captured before.

Tips for live trapping mammals in an attic using a cage trap

• Set the trap on the roof, as close to the entry hole as possible. Why not in the attic? Because adult raccoons seem to be less wary of traps on the roof than they are of traps placed in attics or on the ground.
   
• With a roof set, you can safely use a few baits that wouldn't be recommended for a ground set, such as pet food, because non-target animals aren't as likely to go up on a roof. Avoid oily fish products such as sardines, because they might stain the roof.
   
• With a roof set, you can also check the trap from the outside of the building.
   
• How will you keep the trap from sliding off the roof? If the owner agrees, drive screws part way into the roof, then wire the trap to the screws. Once the trap is secure, finish driving the screws into the roof, then dab some roof sealant onto the heads of the screws.

Tips for live trapping mammals on the ground using a cage trap

• Set the trap in the animal's travel path, or in an area the animal uses often. (Look for sign.)
   
• Choose a bait that will appeal to the target animal but not attract unwanted animals. For example, pet food attracts raccoons—and cats and dogs. If you want to trap a raccoon, a better option might be marshmallows, which aren't as enticing to cats. Eggs are sometimes used as bait for skunks. Apples or raw vegetables are good woodchuck baits.
   
• Covering the bottom of the trap with soil or leaves may also convince an animal to enter.
   
• Raccoons may respond to a visual attractant such as a piece of aluminum foil suspended from the roof of the trap.
   
• There are many commercially available scent lures. Just be aware that lures may attract unwanted species, too. NWCOs tend to use lures when they're dealing with a trap-shy individual, or must set their trap away from the nuisance animal's favorite areas.
   
• After you have the trap set and baited, "dry fire" or trip the trap. Make sure the trap door(s) close smoothly and firmly.

This trap (Lil' Grizz Get'rz™) takes advantage of the coon's dexterity. Many animals can stick their paws into a "hole" (the trap), but most can't grasp and pull out an object that's within. Coons can. The object is the trigger, and they'll try to pull it out, which fires the trap.

Multiple capture traps are able to catch more than one animal without having to be reset. Most multiple capture traps are designed for mice. Some brands (such as Ketch-All®) will catch animals up to the size of chipmunks. However, larger animals are likely to suffer harm. Some designs (such as Ketch-All® and Kwick Katch®) have a wind-up spring that powers a rotating mechanism. The mice are shuttled into a holding compartment. Other traps (such as the Victor Tin Cat®) have one-way doors that allow mice to enter, but not leave. If you intend to use this as a live trap, you must ensure that it's checked often enough so that animals don't overheat and die in the trap.

Foothold traps restrain animals by holding the foot. Foothold traps can be used on land and in the water. In nuisance wildlife control in New York, they are the most efficient tools for catching coyotes and foxes, and are also important for raccoon, beaver, and muskrat. There are several different designs, including the coilspring trap, which is probably the most commonly used foothold trap; the longspring trap; and several new cylindrical foothold traps (Lil' Grizz Get'rz®, Duffer trap®, EGG trap®) meant specifically for raccoons. These cylindrical foothold traps reduce the chance of catching the wrong species and the risk of the raccoon injuring itself.

To set a coilspring trap, you must fully depress the spring levers. This compresses the springs. Then, place the dog across the nearest jaw until the tip of the dog fits into the notch of the pan. The dog holds the trap open in its set position. When an animal steps on the pan, it dislodges the dog from its notch and springs the trap, closing the jaws around its foot.

	Above, a coilspring trap, a type of foothold trap, shown in its set position. This live trap is shown in its sprung position at left.

In some cases, modifying a standard coilspring trap by padding or laminating the jaws will reduce the chance of injuring the captured animal while possibly increasing the effectiveness of the trap. There are commercial models available with these modifications, too. Many NWCOs also add at least one swivel between the trap chain and the stake that anchors the trap to the ground. These swivels allow the captured animal to move around without binding the chain and twisting its leg. (Most within the chain are double swivels, but single swivels are usually used at the end of the chain.)

Adjusting the pan tension on coilspring traps helps reduce the chance of capturing the wrong species (an animal that weighs less than the target species should be able to step on the pan without triggering the trap). There are several ways to adjust pan tension. With some trap designs, you can tighten or loosen the pan tension screw, which controls the amount of pressure needed to spring the trap. The tighter the screw, the heavier the animal must be to spring the trap.

In New York, there are legal restrictions on the jaw spread of a foothold trap. The jaw spread is the distance between the two jaws when the trap is set (not counting the thickness of each jaw's gripping surface). A foothold trap set on land is allowed a maximum jaw spread of 5 3/4 inches; in water, the jaw spread cannot be greater than 7 1/4 inches. There's another restriction for foothold traps set on land in New York: if the trap has a jaw spread of 4 inches or larger it must be equipped with a pan tensioning device and must be covered with some material such as soil, sand, or leaves.

Nets are usually used to capture birds, such as sparrows and starlings, inside warehouses. To use one type of fine-threaded net, called a "mist net," you'll need training, skill, and a permit (it takes skill to remove a bird from a mist net without harming the bird). Unless you have the appropriate federal and state permits, a NWCO should NEVER use a mist net to try to capture wild songbirds outside. Mist nets should be monitored during use and removed immediately after. Even veteran users can become frustrated trying to capture a sparrow or two in a net inside a large warehouse.

Bird live traps are available in many designs. Most are designed to capture particular types of birds. Some will capture one bird at a time, while others can capture many birds. To increase your chance of success, give the birds time to get used to the cage trap. First, put out some bird seed, shelled corn for pigeons, or other appropriate bait to get the birds used to feeding in the area. (If the birds don't come to the site, choose another area.) Once the birds are feeding at the site, place the cage trap next to the bait and prop it open with wires. Place bait outside and inside the trap, to encourage the birds to enter the trap. Finally, when the birds are used to entering the trap, set the trap and place the bait only inside the trap. Leave one or two captured birds inside the trap as decoys. Give them shelter, and water and food, daily.

Cable restraints. This tool is not legal in New York, with one exception: with training, certification, and a special permit, a NWCO may use cable restraints to capture beaver.

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